Luxury designer label Emilia Wickstead consistently holds a prominent position on the London Fashion Week schedule, showcasing collections that have cemented her reputation as a master of modern femininity, sophisticated silhouettes, and exacting craftsmanship. Known for her strong use of color, the New Zealand born designer's shows are highly anticipated events, often drawing a star studded front row and attention from international press. Wickstead's presentations effectively balance the romance of bygone eras with a contemporary polish, creating clothing that is elegant, distinctive, and timeless.
Wickstead's recent collections at London Fashion Week have shown a deep dive into specific, thought provoking inspirations. For her Autumn/Winter 2025 ready to wear collection, she drew inspiration from Alfred Hitchcock's film The Birds (1963), focusing not on the director but on the powerful women who shaped the film’s visual legacy: costume designer Edith Head, actress Tippi Hedren, and writer Daphne du Maurier. This theme translated into a collection of Sixties inspired looks, featuring utilitarian cuts, shift dresses, and mod style skirts. A key takeaway was the re introduction of the pillbox hat, paired strikingly with accessories like cargo boots. The palette featured neutrals like taupe, pale pinks, and mint, punctuated by signature color blocking in pistachio, crimson, turquoise, and purple, maintaining the brand’s refined aesthetic with a touch of cinematic drama.
In a different seasonal turn, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection was inspired by the work and sartorial style of German born French photographer Gisèle Freund. Freund, a renowned photojournalist, believed that photography suited the feminine mentality because women are excellent observers of human nature. This collection explored the dynamic between a public persona and a private life, featuring inventive riffs on men's ties a symbol of authority and strong collars, alluding to Freund's androgynous personal style. The collection was set in the Royal Geographical Society and featured bold, vibrant colors like baby blue, blazing green, neon yellow, and bright red, alongside her classic soft feminine fabrics. The line showcased inventive asymmetric pleated skirts, tailored ensembles, and painterly florals, blending her usual sophisticated femininity with a tomboyish, intellectual edge.
The overall strategy in Wickstead's London Fashion Week showings is to present a collection that offers a cohesive, character driven narrative while delivering on her core brand values: precision, structure, and elevated elegance. By honoring pioneering female creatives and cinematic muses, she successfully crafts collections that feel both historically referential and entirely modern. Her ability to translate high concept inspiration into a commercially appealing ready to wear collection, which includes everything from day wear separates to glamorous evening gowns, solidifies her as a leading voice in British fashion. The continued strength of her e commerce and direct to consumer sales, even during challenging economic periods, points to the lasting appeal and commercial viability of her distinct, ladylike aesthetic.
