Former British Vogue editor in chief Edward Enninful has said the fashion industry is at risk of going backwards on diversity and returning to old, exclusionary norms. Speaking at London Fashion Week, he warned that "anti-woke" rhetoric is gaining momentum and that the industry is in a state of "flux." Enninful, who championed diversity and inclusivity during his tenure, suggested that the industry is seeing a return to the beauty standard of being "super thin" and "European." His comments come amid warnings from other experts about a return to the super skinny trend.
Enninful's statement highlights a broader concern that the recent gains in diversity within fashion may be fragile. Over the last decade, brands have made more of an effort to feature a wider range of models, including those of different ethnicities, body types, ages, and genders, on their runways and in campaigns. This shift was largely driven by consumer demand and social movements that called for more authentic representation. However, Enninful and others fear that this progress could be reversed as some in the industry embrace a "one type is the norm" philosophy once again.
The challenges to diversity are not just cultural but also economic. Some brands, faced with a complex market, may feel pressure to revert to what they see as a safe, conventional aesthetic. This is happening at a time when the industry is grappling with other major issues, like climate change, sustainability, and technological integration. For Enninful, these are precisely the moments when the fashion world needs to "figure out where we stand and what we stand for." He believes that by neglecting diversity, the industry risks alienating a younger generation of consumers who value authenticity and inclusion.
In response to these trends, Enninful has launched a new media platform called EE72. His new project, which he describes as "inclusive," aims to continue the work he started at British Vogue and to push the industry forward. The first issue of his print magazine, "72," focuses on the beauty of women over 50, a demographic that has historically been overlooked in fashion media. Through this new venture, he hopes to lead by example and prove that a diverse and inclusive approach is not only ethical but also essential for the future of fashion.
